The Air Rifle Gun Blog

Scott Ficek asked:




Rifle safes are very popular for hunters and sportsman to store their long guns in. They are heavy and built to withstand considerable effort to gain access to the contents. They are meant to never give up their contents. Some are even fireproof and waterproof.

So if you own a rifle safe, what else can you use this big monster safe for?
Store your valuables in it. With the incredible security features built into this safe, you can rest assured that your valuables are protected. Plus, in the event of a fire, you will quickly know where you valuables are even if your house is in ruins.

Important documents should be stored in rifle safes. They again can be protected against fire, but also against theft. During a burglary the house may be ransacked. Would you realize that your birth certificate or other important documents were stolen right away? If they were in a file in your home office, maybe not. Identity theft is one of the fastest growing crimes. While you can easily replace the papers, fixing your credit and good name may be much more difficult.

Store your pistols in this gun safe also. It will keep them out of the hands of both children and criminals. Either of which can have devastating results.

As a side note, these safes can become very humid inside them. Plan to purchase a dehumidifier or desiccant that is sized for your gun rifle safe. Without it, things can tarnish, rust or develop a layer of mold.

If you are in the market for a new safe, maybe you should consider buying a waterproof and fire proof safe. Statistics show that every home will have a flooded basement at least every 20 years. This can be caused by anything from a true flood to a sewer backup. You do not want to have your guns, valuables or important documents ruined by water.

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Matthew Betourney asked:




Many people have no clue how an airsoft gun actually works. This guide will explain the technical details of how the different types of airsoft guns actually operate. You may be amazed when you find out just how simple these guns actually are (even the fully automatic electric AEG guns).

The spring powered airsoft guns (or “sniper rifles”) work just like a real pellet or BB gun, with the exception that they have a much smaller and lighter spring. What happens is when you **** them back, it actually pulls back a big coil spring, which has an air tight plunger attached to the end of it. When you pull the trigger it simply releases this spring, and thus propels the airsoft BB out of the gun. Pretty basic huh?

The way the gas and C02 airsoft guns (which generally sums up the airsoft pistols) work is they simply use compressed C02 or green gas. The gas is loaded (and stored) into the magazine of the airsoft gun when green gas is used. With the C02 powered guns, the air is simply stored in the C02 cartridge it’s self, which goes into the magazine of the gun, or sometimes the actual stock of the gun. Each time you pull the trigger of the gun, it releases a small amount of the compressed air or gas, and that is what propels the BB.

As far as the electric AEG airsoft rifles go, those are still powered with a coil spring, but the way that they operate is far more interesting than the standard, single shot spring airsoft guns. Electric airsoft guns still **** back a spring for each shot, but they do it by turning a series of gears, which are powered by a batter and a powerful electric motor. Also, the rate at which the motor/gears pull back the spring is extremely fast, sometimes reaching 800-900 shorts per minute (or about 15 shorts per second).

Unlike the basic spring powered airsoft rifles (and sniper rifles), the electric and gas powered airsoft guns need external power sources to in order to fire. In the case of electric airsoft rifles, this just means that you will be using a rechargeable battery pack. However, with gas and C02 powered guns, you will always need to keep purchasing additional gas/C02 in order to fire your gun.

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Brendan O' Dwyer asked:




Having never shot a gun, nor seen a pig in the wild, you could say I was very much an in-experienced hunter, but when the opportunity presented itself, my enthusiasm more than qualified me to join an expedition. No pigeons or rats for this buccaneer, my first kill would result from a ‘do-or-die’ situation. Kill or be killed I mused as I pictured myself pitted against the might of a charging boar. Sights aligned, trigger readied, Beast against Bullet.

As it turned out, the only time I saw bullets that day was when they were falling off the kitchen table as we gathered our equipment. I flinched like I’d just been stung by a wasp as they bounced off the concrete floor. The only eyes being batted were in my direction. Harden up, I thought, we’re going pig-killin’.

So my two companions, a complete stranger and a friend of a friend, had guns, knives, and full camo gear, while I had a water bottle and a camera. There were other weapons I was told, namely Rat and Mouse, two specially bred pig dogs. They belonged to the most ardent hunter in the area and his home was a shrine to his exploits as a marksman. They were tied, with about ten other dogs, to the base of a large dead tree. The bark was black and the branches bare except for the hundreds of skulls that hung there. Empty eye sockets stared down from deer skulls as their antlers twisted into each other like some macabre foliage. Jaw bones from wild pigs, complete with pairs of huge tusks, hung in rows, sneered down at me. The dogs yelped and squealed and tore at their bindings. ‘Pick me, pick me’ they barked. Careful not to walk in the bundles of snares and traps by my feet, I stepped away from the scene.

By my judgement, the dogs were a greyhound-bull mastiff cross. ‘Fast and Nasty’ I was told. So, Tip number 1: Get dogs.

Off we headed, into New Zealand’s rugged south island hills, with our guns and dogs and a sense of direction that only my companions were aware of. I assumed I’d just follow them and try not to get shot but my assumptions were misguided. To follow someone else’s trail, I was assured, could be ******* as the hills were riddled with wasp nests. If someone disturbed a nest, it’s the one following behind that will suffer the consequences. Tip 2: Beat your own path.

As we plodded along by a stream in a cool shaded gully, my two guides discussed our tactics. When one of them pointed to the ridge on one side of us I knew that we were in for a climb. And climb we did, for about 45 minutes, up a slope of about 55 degrees. Travelling through thick bush is hard enough on the flat, but with this angle it made for a hellish struggle. Tip 3: Be fit.

I finally reached the ridge and was confronted for the first time by the heat of the day. It was early morning but already in the mid 20’s. As our next route was being discussed, just beyond eaves-dropping distance, I realised I’d have no say, nor would have any information, until I opened my mouth. “Where to now,” I asked between gulps of air. “After the pigs,” was the reply. Tip 4: Don’t ask stupid questions.

We slid down the other side of the ridge and rested in the shaded gulley at its base. There had been no sign of the dogs since we left the car. No sign of pigs either. Tip 5: Don’t get your hopes up.

I kicked a lump of mud into a small pool next to me. Just then, I heard rummaging nearby. The adrenaline began to flow as I imagined the pig charging in my direction. My guides didn’t seem too excited so I took their queue to be calm. Suddenly, the dogs burst from the bush and scampered around us. One of them lay in the pool next to me. It was a pig bath, I was duly told. He lay there and rolled in the mud, picked up the pigs scent, looked through his eyes, had, for a moment, become the pig, then tore off in another direction. ‘We’re on,’ I heard someone mutter.

I blindly fumbled through the bush, trying to avoid wasp’s nests. One of my companions would point to a broken branch or a skinned tree and claim that they were pig markings. Sure, I thought. With each forced step and scratch to the face, my enthusiasm waned. I hoped that we wouldn’t find a pig because I imagined dragging the thing back to the jeep, being covered by its blood, being infected by it’s fleas, getting drooled upon as I tried to shoulder its massive weight. But then I thought, well, if we don’t find a pig, then why the hell am I here? Why am I climbing yet another ridge, suffering another scratch to the face, twisting another ankle in the undergrowth if there is to be no prize at the end of it? My apathy became determination. Tip 6: Stay focused

We kept up to the dogs as best we could, resting when we could. Tip 7: Don’t sit on the ground when hunting dogs are present, unless you want a thick film of greasy saliva all over your head and a lungful of retched, death flavoured breath.

I did savour some fantastic views during my trek and it as during one of these moments, while catching my breath and losing it again at the sight of the scenery, that some nearby rustling did occur. The body language of my companions signified that this was the real deal. A silent dog, I had been told, was a killing dog. A barking dog was one that encountered a pig so large it needed backup. The chorus of barking that ensued denoted a huge one. I heard some branches snap and some loud un-earthly sounding grunts. The grunts intensified, grew louder and morphed into full-blooded shrieks - like a stuck pig’s I suppose.

I caught a glimpse of its huge shoulders as it darted through the undergrowth. I reached for my .22 rifle; the one that my mind told me should be hanging on my shoulder. I clawed at my nonexistent knife clip to unleash the hunting sabre that my adrenaline supplied me with. I stood, rooted with just clenched fists and teeth to defend myself with. Tip 8; Bring weapons.

Luckily for me the noise faded, carried in the opposite direction, and away into another day’s tale. My companions saw fit to climb two more ridges, but even I knew the hunt had ended and that the fleeting glimpse was as close as I would get. No shots fired, no blood drawn, no addition to the tree of skulls

Unbeknownst to me, we had completed a full loop and ended up back at the start. Tip 9: Do a loop, for the sake of all your bodily functions.

Safe and well, I withered into the back seat of the jeep. All things considered; gunshots, tusk gouges and wasp stings, steep inclines and exposed ridges, my imagination had been my most dangerous foe. Which brings me to Tip 10: Learn to hunt pigeons and rats before 500 pound beasts. But you already knew that one.

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Sarah Porter asked:




Airsoft Rifles and Air Soft Rifle for Your Softair Games

Nothing can compare to the exhilaration of shooting Airsoft Rifles on the field with friends and role-playing adversaries. No video game can capture that sense of excitement when the team members come together to conquer the other team or when they are sneaking up on one of their enemies or being chased in the field by a competitor. Even though Airsoft Guns are definitely safer than the real thing, a sense of real danger that can’t be recreated in video games comes with the event. That’s the beauty of the Air Soft Rifle game. Whether people are playing with friends or doing a military re-enactment, having the right weapons for the task is crucial to any team’s success.

Choosing an Airsoft Rifle or other weapons is not something that should be done on a whim. People who are serious about getting involved in the world of air soft need to take into consideration how they want to play and what they want to get out of the fun. A Softair Rifle serves a very different purpose on the field than a Airsoft Pistol. Whether a customer is new to the game or not, they can find not only the weapons they want but also answers to all of their questions online.

Other Affordable Airsoft Rifles

Unfortunately, electric models are among the most costly to purchase. One alternative might be the Spring Airsoft Rifle that uses tension to power the ammunition. Just as a tightened rubber band releases energy when relaxed suddenly, the tension band inside these guns gives off a great deal of energy by doing the same thing. Because of how they work, they don’t need an additional power source so they are always ready when a player needs it. They also don’t require additional accessories, such as gas canisters, to operate.

While the Spring Rifle Airsoft does provide some advantages, they do have a few drawbacks. Because of their firing mechanism, they are only capable of shooting one round at a time, which can be a significant drawback on the battlefield. When the tension band wears out, the gun also stops working, and that usually happens faster than mechanical failures with electric or gas powered models. Since they cost considerably less, however, the trade-off might be worth it to some buyers.

Why the Airsoft Rifle?

When it comes to the Rifle Airsoft Gun, the most popular models are the ones powered by rechargeable batteries. These are known as the airsoft electric guns or AEGs. They can come in automatic and semi-automatic, which makes them better choices for the battlefield because they can fire faster, and can take out more enemies than some of the other models on the market. Of course, the downside is that the electric-powered versions of these weapons can also be more expensive. But customers who want something realistic-looking aren’t going to find anything better in most cases.

Experience Needed: The Airsoft Sniper Rifle

When a team is deciding on a sniper, they don’t want to give that responsibility to the newbie. Only an experienced player can effectively wield a Sniper Airsoft Rifle. That’s not because the weapon is hard to use but because sniping takes more than just good aim to do well. Snipers need to be able to find the perfect hiding place on the field to take out the other players without being taken out in the process. In some cases, that might be easier said than done. Additionally, the sniper guns tend to cost a bit more than other Electric Airsoft Rifle options. For experienced players or for those looking for a challenge, these Airsoft Rifles can be a great choice and are available for some of the most affordable prices online.

Customers searching for the best deals on quality Airsoft Rifles don’t have to look any further than the online websites.

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Nick Moseley asked:




You’ve just got yourself a new rifle scope, fitted it and let me guess…for some reason your shots are landing nowhere near the crosshairs?

Sadly there’s more to rifle scope sharp shooting than just plonking the scope on the rifle and forever after shooting like an SAS sniper! You have to “zero” it.

Think about it. It’s like a bike wheel. If you tighten the bolts wrong, too much on one side for example, it spins wrong and rubs the brake pads. It’s the same with a Rifle scope. If it’s not set up correctly it will be offline and even at short air rifle, airsoft and paintball ranges this is going to throw your accuracy right off. At longer ranges you’ll miss by a mile (well figuratively anyway!)

What Does “Zero a scope” mean?

Zeroing a sight or scope means getting the crosshair in position so that when you shoot. Ground zero if you like. The point of impact.There’s a lot of discussion amongst shooters on the best way to zero a scope or sight. What I’ve written below is what I’ve been sending out to my ebay scope buyers for the last year or so and received a lot of good comments back about it so I know it’s OK!

How to Zero a Rifle Scope

First of all you need to set a firm foundation by fitting the scope mounts well.

Put the scope mounts on the rifle first with the top brackets removed. Tighten them into place using 1/2 turns at the time so that they sit solid and level as best as is possible, i.e., the downward pressure is as equal as possible. At this stage don’t tighten them fully as you might want to slide them up and down a little. Now take scope and place it on top of the open rifle mounts. Make sure the windage and elevation turrets are one up and one to the right (these are the “turrets” on the sight. You use them later to make micro adjustments and in the field adjustments for wind) Then put the top mount brackets on and tighten - Again use partial turns to tighten up. Don’t tighten fully at this stage, you may yet need to adjust a little.
Zero the scope

Lie in your normal shooting position and check that you can see through the scope well… The distance between your eye and the rear scope lens is called Eye Relief. Unlike cartoons you do not use a scope by pressing your eye up against the scope lens! Once comfortable complete the screwing down of all mounts so that your set up is solid - take care at this stage to keep the final turns partial and one by one to ensure pressure is equal.
Now it’s time to zero the scope for shooting:



Load the rifle Adopt your standard prone/lie down shooting position. Prone is the best way as if you test shoot from standing or kneeling positions you waver more and it’s harder to do a “true test”. Put some sort of target in place at say 20 yards - or whatever you think your “standard” range will be. Using cross hair on target centre - Take 2-3 shots - Where do do they fall in relation to where you want them to? Right, left, up, down - dead on (lucky you!)
2-3 shots is best as it will average out shooter inaccuracy and give you a more “significant” feel for how far or close you are from true zero.

Now it’s time to use the windage and elevation turrets to get it zeroed dead on. These are the 2 turrets on the top and right side of the scope. See my website for pictures.

Models vary, you’ll probably ***** a cap off and expose either a coin twist or finger knurled type of dial. The top turret adjusts up and down. The right one left and right. If you have your scopes instructions they should have a table with figures to tell you what each click adjustment means in terms of cross hair movement at “x” distance, e.g., 1/8 inch at 100 metres.

Use single click turns and each time take a new shot to gauge where the shot now falls - the dials basically adjust the cross hair position up-down and left-right.

It’s trial and error basically but with testing you’ll get to where you need to be and be able to trust that your shots will go where it says they will! This may take some time and a lot of shots. Be patient!

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Peter Boston asked:




The best caliber Air Gun for you depends almost entirely on the intended use your air rifle or pistol and less so on how much you want to spend because there are some very good values in both rifles and pistols in the heavier calibers.

The greatest majority of air guns sold worldwide are.177 caliber. This caliber is the best for target shooting with either a rifle or a pistol for a couple reasons. One reason is that.177 caliber ammunition or pellets are lighter weight than the heavier calibers and require less energy to propel them on a flat trajectory at the usual target shooting distance of 10 m. That means that.177 caliber Air Guns can be constructed lighter and smaller which usually means less cost to the manufacturer and to you.

Even if you are not interested in the technical aspects the.177 caliber is often the best choice because of the wide variety of rifle and pistol choices from several different manufacturers. For well under $100 you can get a CO2 powered multishot repeater with a hardwood stock in some cases that shoots fast enough for a flat trajectory yet is still slow enough to stay reasonably safe in a backyard range setting.

Perhaps the best general purpose caliber for an Air Gun is.20 caliber. The trajectory of a.20 pellet is nearly as flat as a.177 pellet at the same muzzle velocity but its heavier weight carries about 40% more energy. The size and weight of a.20 caliber rifle is also not much different than the smaller caliber.177 caliber. This is probably the minimum size you should consider for hunting. Unfortunately the number of choices of.20 caliber air rifles is fairly limited.

If you intend to own only one hunting Air Gun then it should probably be a.22 caliber. Although the range of a.22 caliber pellet is less than the.20 caliber pellet the.22 pellet packs about 80% more downrange energy than a.177 caliber pellet. This is also a popular caliber size and you will find a good assortment of air rifles and a few pistols at different price levels. The best hunting air rifle bargain may be the Crosman 2260, a single shots, bolt action CO2 powered,.22 caliber air rifle.

Although there are some larger big bore air rifles available the.25 caliber is unbeatable in carrying the most downrange energy and knock-down force. The.25 caliber air rifle is commonly used in Texas to hunt wild pigs with wide success. For the most part.25 caliber hunting air rifles will be in the $300 and up range.

One of the best things about air guns is that their initial cost is a fraction of the cost of a conventional firearm. Operating costs can be measured in pennies especially in the.177 caliber category. You probably will not have do limit yourself to one or even two air guns.

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